Roasted Veal with Morel Mushrooms and Saffron Carrots

Factory-style veal—the result of a giant dairy industry gone amok, with cast-off male calves subjected to inhumane treatment—has animal rights people up in arms, and rightly so. Happily, wholesome, natural milk-fed veal is being raised again, and its flavor is excellent. If you can’t find good veal, use a pork loin roast (from a politically correct nonfactory pig farm).

Wild morel mushrooms are another delicacy, abundant in the spring woods and fun to hunt, but they’re are also rela