Rum Baba with Cardamom

Rum baba is one of those desserts people either love or hate. If you grew up with syrup-soaked cakes, you’ll adore it. If not, probably not. French restaurants make a big production of their babas au rhum, hauling a cart of exotic vintage rums over to the table and letting the diner choose the rum to be poured over the baba.

In Italy, you can find a rum-soaked cake in any bar, to accompany a strong espresso for a late-morning pick-me-up. The Italians and the French are still arguing