This is a delicious way to eat ray cold and works a treat as a light lunch dish on a hot summer’s day. I suppose it’s a sort of fishy version of classic jambon persillé. Ray has a naturally high gelatine content in the bones and the skin, so do try to get all the bits with it. In case the fishmonger throws them away, I have added a gelatine leaf here just to make sure. Baby leeks dressed in a tarragon and mustard vinaigrette make a delicious alternative accompaniment.