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This is another of those ‘classic’ dishes that arrives on the plate in lots of different guises. All too often it is a garbage bin of ingredients put together with little care or thought, when it should just consist of some simple seasonal produce, well seasoned and dressed in style. It can be made as luxurious or as simple as you like, but it must reflect the food of the south. French beans are now commonly used, as are tiny artichokes. The tuna can be good quality canned or, if you fancy