Kedgeree

The Hindi rice, lentil and onion dish of khichri has come a long way. The breakfast dish with which we are so familiar today was developed from that peasant meal by the British in India as a good way of using up fish and rice.

Smoked Finnan haddock makes the best kedgeree by far. The smokiness travels deliciously through the sauce and rice. Don’t be tempted to buy bright yellow, dyed haddock fillet: no smoke on this earth has ever been known to produce that colour. A few praw