If only I had known what I was doing as a kid, throwing those ugly spider crabs out of my net and back into the water. My friend Nigel, who makes bespoke fishing nets, does a bit of part-time potting for crabs and also discriminates against the ugly ones. He is an old hand, though, and instead of throwing them back, he sells them to an export company which, in turn, sells them to Spain. Which is where, in fact, I came across a similar dish to this, at a fish restaurant in S