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Apparently this dish was invented - or discovered, as the case may be - at Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans. I’ve always been puzzled as to what exactly were the correct ingredients, as they seem to change from cookbook to cookbook. Oysters are a fixture, obviously, but bacon, cheese and aniseed- or fennel-flavoured spirit - even absinthe - seem to crop up in some versions. The spinach or greens are either puréed or remain in leaf form. One version we tried incorporated the blended spina