Pain Aux Raisins

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By Joanne Chang

Published 2010

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During my days at Payard, I must have tried brioche a hundred different ways. I ate it plain, sweet, and savory; for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Brioche was my kryptonite. Whenever I thought I was too beat to wake up at 3 A.M. for my sixteen-hour shift, I would start to wonder what sort of mouthwatering brioche treat we would make that day. That thought was enough to pull me out of my bed and into the city’s dark streets to stumble my way to the patisserie. Within a few h