During my time at Boston’s Mistral restaurant, chef Jamie Mammano asked me to put this oh-so-1980s dessert on the menu. Tiramisu is typically made with store-bought ladyfingers, mascarpone cheese, brandy or Marsala, and cocoa powder. I wanted to make an updated version with my own touch. I tweaked a favorite sponge cake recipe and included some coffee in the cake; I made a mascarpone mousse and added Kahlúa for more coffee flavor; and I decided on grated chocolate rather than cocoa powder. Jamie and our customers were thrilled with the result. So, yes, tiramisu has had its heyday. And you may think you’ve already eaten enough to last you a lifetime. But I think you’ll agree this version makes the old favorite worth revisiting.