I spent a day wandering round the saltpans near Trapani, Sicily, on a chilly morning watching the windmills rotate eerily in the light breeze.
Salt is so important. A man deemed to be ‘worth his salt’ was one who sat at the top end of the feudal dinner table. Lesser mortals who sat ‘below the salt’ were denied the privilege of eating this essential condiment. Some of the best capers I tasted were preserved in salt. Salt cod is an enduring favourite dish of mine. Salted lemons make a