It was a hot day and after a long journey across the Spanish country-side in a pathetic little car without air conditioning I was tired, thirsty and irritable, and not at all in the mood for monasteries. Then, as I rounded a bend on this tortuous road, the land dropped away to reveal a serene valley and an impressive granite monastery dating from the fifteenth century, set in neatly cultivated vegetable gardens.

But as we approached the front of the edifice I was astounded to see a