A waiter with a black waistcoat and a long white apron is unfolding chairs around the tables on the pavement in front of the restaurant. It is 11.30 and the morning sun is quickly drying the freshly rinsed paving stones. A plump, prim, neat, middle-aged lady, thick, black hair swept back into a bun, is briskly laying heavy-plated cutlery on the crisp white tablecloths. A young girl with a tray is placing stainless steel cruet sets behind her. Inside, at the cool bar, I am sitting sipping a