Stuffed Green Chiles

The secret of flavor in this appealing appetizer is asiento, the delicious residue of home-rendered lard. The next choice would be the lard itself, which won’t have as good texture but will match the right taste. Bacon grease is inauthentic but flavorful. Don’t try it with oil or shortening, which are totally tasteless.

Green Anaheim chiles are the best U.S. substitute for the Oaxacan chile de agua. In this case you do not peel them before cooking. They hold together better w