Venancia Toledo Hernández introduced me to this savory, slightly sweet dish at her home in Ixtepec, one of the notable culinary centers of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. The dish is equally good made with beef—it’s a perfect way of using up leftover roast beef or pot roast. Shred the cooked meat as finely as you can; the texture of the filling should be almost paste-like.
