Turkey Soup

In Oaxaca, turkey is a lot closer to the native pre-Hispanic bird than the big overbred creatures sold in the U.S. Oaxacan turkeys are small and not so cardboard-like. Almost never would they be roasted as is done in the U.S. People in Oaxaca usually braise turkey (as in moles), pit-barbecue it, or cook it in soups.

In ancient times turkey was sacrificed on all important days of the intricate pre-Hispanic calendar, and the custom has not disappeared in the remote villages. Th