Etla-style Tamales with Avocado Leaves

On one of my visits to Juchitán in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec I was introduced to a group of artists who were in town for a major exhibition. I struck up a conversation with the painter Juan Alcázar, who comes from the town of Etla in the Valley of Oaxaca and is as proud of his home’s culinary traditions as the Isthmians are of theirs. He described some fascinating Etla specialties to me, including an unusual type of tamal wrapped in fresh avocado leaves. The next time I was in Etla I went