Aquilino’s Grilled Chicken

I met Aquilino on my first trip to the Isthmus, when I was looking for a knowledgeable guide to introduce me to the local Zapotee culture. Someone in Salina Cruz came up with the name of a young declamador, one who recites poetry. Aquilino shared much beautiful Zapotee poetry and song with me—and also this recipe, with its typical southern Mexican achiote-tinted spice rub. Try the spice paste also with fish.

I have had to adjust Aquilino’s original directions, which were for