Lamb with Cracked Corn, Pit-Barbecue Style

The market in the village of Etla, a few miles from Oaxaca City, is full of surprises. Here I found some unusual foods bearing a distinct Zapotee influence. And here I met Susana Taurino Jiménez Rojas at a little stand where she sells nothing but a lamb barbecue that I had to learn the secret of.

Susana makes this dish with a whole lamb, which is pit-cooked overnight in one pot while a delectable broth made from the innards is cooking in another pot. At the market,