On one of my visits to Juchitán in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, I went to a great party at a restaurant called Bar Jardín. The chef, Odilia Román, gave me her recipe for this versatile sauce made with a combination of dried chiles. Odilia’s version is quite hot. You could tone it down by lowering the amount of chipotle and árbol chiles and using more guajillos. I don’t recommend the food processor; sauces with dried chiles are always