Flaky Teast Rolls

The name hojaldre may confuse Spanish-speakers who recognize it as a standard term for puff pastry. Though I’ve never seen an explanation, I suspect that these tender, highly shortened rolls came by their title because they have a flaky, layered crumb a little like some versions of mock puff pastry.

The baker Gabriel Cruz Aguilar shared his method of making hojaldre. Like other professional bakers I’ve talked to in Oaxaca, he combines the yeast and oth