Beans Cowboy Style

A favorite Sunday afternoon activity in Ciudad Juárez, across the border from El Paso, is to go out to the outskirts of the city and eat tacos al carbón. They are sold in small but very clean stands. The atmosphere is festive and totally Mexican, with whole families sitting around long oilcloth-covered tables and strolling bands of musicians, usually mariachis or trios. The meat (beef or pork) is charcoal-broiled, cut with lightning speed into tiny squares, placed in a soft, freshly