This recipe has become my signature dish, but actually I adapted it from one of the dishes my mother found when everyone was passing recipes on to me in El Paso. It was originally done with crab, but here the cost would be prohibitive for what was originally a simple dish from a bar in Tampico, Tamaulipas state.
The story is this: My stepfather and my mother were in Tampico on a business trip. My Tío Chacha is a nosher. (We call him tie—uncle—because we have known h