This is the sauce I served at Williamsburg with the fish tamales. I first tasted it with my mother at the restaurant Camino Real in Mexico City, where they made a very good version of a traditional seafood dish called pescado al cilantro (fish baked with cilantro sauce). My mother and I both have a passion for cilantro. While we were trying to duplicate the sauce, she developed this wonderful version.
Years later, while eating a totally unrelated squid dish at Elaine’s in New