Mussels or Shrimp in White Wine

Mussels are eaten regularly in Thessalonica, Kavalla, and all over northern Greece. They are sold shucked, in small airtight plastic bags filled with seawater. The packaging and expiration date—no more than two days later—are stamped on the packet.

As in Athens, we rarely find mussels in the fishmarkets, so each time I travel to the north I always eat a lot of the local specialties: mussels dipped in batter and fried, cooked with rice, or this way in white wine, which I enjoy enormo