Panagiotis Patiniotis, the owner of a small hotel and tavern in the village of Maltezana on Astypalaia, grills fish better than anyone else I know—in Greece or elsewhere. Panagiotis loves to grill fish, and he looks happy only when he stands by his old and rusted outdoor grill, turning his hinged fish grills over and over again, basting the fish and occasionally spraying the burning charcoal with water to reduce the heat.