Chandrika K. Ganatra, ‘specialist in dinner rolls, squashes, Punjabi dishes and pickles’ says her card. She takes me barefoot across a floor tiled in blue and terracotta and sits me at her table. Spices, mangoes and a Pandora’s box of unfamiliar ingredients sit in neat rows upon the patterned plastic cloth. Her bracelets jangle as she flutters her hands over bowls of saffron and cardamom syrup. Then I taste her pickle - made with the smallest of green mangoes, weeny cloves
