Stir-fried crab claws

The fattest, juiciest arms of dismembered spider crab are on the menu at Bangkok’s Seafood Market restaurant (Soi Sukhumvit 24, Sukhumvit Road, Khlongtoey). Here, in neon-lit supermarket-like surroundings, you grab a trolley, stack it with gorgeous seafood pulled from a mile-long iced counter - an altar to some of Thailand’s finest - then select some veg, and hand the lot over to a battery of wok-flaming cooks, who will cook it to your suggestion (but with their formulaic interpretation). T