Floating market noodles

Smalt narrow boats, fitted out like mini soup kitchens, work the khlongs (waterways), dishing up soupy-noodle variations on a theme. Subtract ingredients you can’t get and add those you have - it’s one of those flexible jobs. Shredded cooked chicken, beef or pork, or boiled quails’ eggs, can be substituted for fish balls or prawns. Remember, Thai soups are all about balance and play. So think: soft and crisp, sharp and sweet, hot and bland, and all making an appearance together. Prawns are