Salad of puréed aubergines

In the heat of high summer, melitzanosalata makes a surprisingly refreshing meze. To be strictly authentic, the aubergines should be grilled or broiled over charcoal, whereupon they will take on an enticing smoky aroma. The mixture is usually served with toast or pitta bread or, as here, with crisp chicory leaves and olives for a smart take on the classic.