Basque Steak with Red Peppers

The Sagardotegiak, or cider houses, outside San Sebastián are bursting with revellers from January to April. It’s time to taste the new-season cider. “Gutxi eta maiz” is the house rule, “little and often”, as you catch the thin jet of cider that spurts directly from the barrel: just a couple of inches in the bottom of the glass, down it in one before it settles, and off you go again.

The highlight of the unchanging cider house menu is the vast steak, the chuletón