Blue Cheese and Tomato Spread

THIS DELICIOUS spread from Olympi and other villages of southern Chios is made with the local tiny and intensely flavored tomatoes and the sharp kopanisti—a blue-type spreadable cheese, very similar to the ricotta forte of Italy’s Puglia. Neither of these two key ingredients is available outside the island, but I was determined to find substitutes, because I love this spread. In the summer, use ripe red tomatoes and bake them to concentrate their flavor—in other seasons, good-