THIS IS an excellent but simple appetizer that you can prepare in advance and serve at room temperature. Stefanos Kovas, a talented chef from Chios, often cooks this traditional recipe from the northern villages of the island. He serves it with pickled vegetables, like the crunchy Jerusalem artichokes that are a common meze in Nenita, in the southern part of Chios. The eggplants are stuffed with a rustic version of taramosalata—a delicate dip made with cod roe