THIS recipe comes from a magnificent little book, The Cooking of Ithaca, by Michalis Magoulas, an ophthalmologist who also happens to be a dedicated cook. He perfected and recorded his mother’s and grandmother’s recipes from the island of Ithaca. The cuisine there has been influenced by the Venetians, the French and the English, who ruled the island until 1864. “As a result of this long European domination over Ithaca (and the rest of the is