Squid with Green Beans

THIS COMBINATION might have escaped me if I hadn’t tried the particularly inspiring version Lefteris Lazarou cooks at Varoulko, his Piraeus restaurant, one of the best places in Greece to try creative fish and seafood dishes. Originally, this dish was eaten during Lent, since squid and cuttlefish have no red blood and can be eaten on the days when all animals, even fish, are banned from the tables of good Greek Orthodox Christians. Unlike most Greek home cooks, Lefteris uses some squid ink