Calamari or Octopus Stew with Macaroni

DURING my childhood, octopus and macaroni was a favorite picnic food on our Easter holiday excursions. We always began our trip on Holy Thursday, near the end of Lent. I had almost forgotten this classic dish until I tasted it again on the island of Chios. Although we used to eat octopus and macaroni cold, it tastes infinitely better served piping hot. We would never add cheese—forbidden during Lent—but you can certainly add some grated feta.