Stuffed Poached Chicken

IN FOLEGANDROS, a tiny, arid but picturesque island of the Cyclades, a small stuffed kid, weighing less than eight pounds, was traditionally the festive Christmas dish. It was cooked in a special large pot on top of the stove. “We had no ovens in the homes, and even if we had, an animal that small would have dried out in the oven,” Maria Primikiri told me.

Living in Athens now, Maria and other cooks from Folegandros substitute chicken for kid, stuffing it with the s