Penne with Olive Oil and Toasted Cheese

KATINA KRITOULI, the owner and cook of the old taverna Makelos, at the entrance of the village of Pitios on northern Chios, makes hand-rolled hollow macaroni. With extraordinary ease, she shapes each piece of dough, first between her palms, then rolling it around a piece of spartoksylo—Spanish broom—to make hollow 2-inch-long tubes of macaroni. The cooked pasta is topped with sizzling olive oil in which grated hard goat cheese has been toasted.

Hard myzithra or any good-quali