Collard Greens with Pancetta

THE GREENS originally called for in this recipe are lahanides, the small green leaves with thick stems that grow around a head of cabbage. They are the cheapest vegetables in the Greek market—a certified food of the poor. But although they’re very tasty, my mother would never think of buying them, because she associates them with the days of starvation during the Nazi occupation, when they were one of the few foods available.

This recipe comes from Santorini, which was once o