New Potatoes with Coriander Seeds and Wine

SOME years ago, in Nicosia, I remember watching Marios Mourtzis, a Cypriot chef and cooking teacher, smash uncooked new potatoes with the palm of his hand as he explained how to cook this dish. Smashing raw potatoes is not easy—they may end up flying all over your kitchen. It is better to smash them half-cooked. Marios explained to me that the name antinaktes comes from an ancient Greek verb meaning “to throw something up in the air,” describing the way the potatoes are tossed during