Lemon Custard in Phyllo

MY MOTHER often bakes her famous bogatsa on Sundays, when my sister and I, together with our husbands, have lunch at her house. It is one of the rare Greek sweets that should be eaten while still warm, so my mother makes the cream and assembles the pie just before noon, then puts the pan in the oven the minute we sit down to eat. By the time our leisurely lunch is over, the bogatsa is nicely browned.

Jim Botsacos, chef of Molyvos, watched my mother mak