Peel the potatoes and cut them into chunks. Cook them in a large pan of boiling salted for 20 minutes, or until just tender.
While they are cooking, peel and dice the onion and fry until browned in a little of the olive oil.
Deseed the chillies, cut the flesh into thin strips and add to the onion. Peel, smash and chop the garlic, adding to the pan only as the onions are cooked. Stir to cook briefly and remove from the heat and reserve.
Prepare the squid steaks as described, brush with the remaining oil, season with salt and pepper.
When the potatoes are cooked, drain well and mash them with the extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Keep warm.
Destalk and chop the coriander.
Heat 2 dry heavy frying pans until very hot. Lay 2 steaks in each, turn with tongs after 30 seconds. Turn and, as they roll up, take the pans off the heat and scatter over the onion mixture.
Transfer to warmed individual serving plates and serve at once, with a big spoonful of the mashed potatoes and with the fried onion, garlic and chilli mixture scattered over. Finish with chopped coriander leaves. A little more extra-virgin olive oil may be poured over, if desired.
© 1995 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.