Barbounia with Fennel & Orange

Depending on the time of year, as you pass through a Mediterranean open-air market the elderly head-scarved party who lurches towards you with a gap-toothed grimace may well be proffering a handful of partially dried flowering heads of fennel for sale - precisely what you want to perfume this dish of roast red mullet - barbounia in Greek. You are not likely to be so accosted in this country and will have to make do with the feathery leaves or bulb of the plant. These are not eaten, but will