Cut each bird through either side of the backbone to open it out. Slam down hard with the heel of your hand to flatten the breastbone and put in a large zip-lock bag or bags.
Peel, smash and chop the garlic finely. Destalk and deseed the chillies, then shred. Juice the lemon and pour into the bag(s) together with the garlic, chilli, oil, oregano and salt and pepper. Seal, shake and leave to marinate at room temperature for 2 hours before cooking or refrigerate overnight (but remove 2 hours before cooking).
Before grilling, grind some more pepper over the birds.
Grill, turning frequently and basting with the leftover marinade. Finish with the skin side to the heat to give a good crisp finish. Leave to rest for 10—15 minutes before serving.
© 1995 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.