The day before: make a marinade with the juice of one of the lemons, the Worcestershire sauce and the mustard. Brush the steaks with this paste, put into a zip-lock bag with the remaining marinade and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or preferably overnight. If you can, turn and shake the bag a couple of times during that time, but don’t bother getting up in the middle of the night to do so.
Next day, about 1½ hours before you plan to start cooking: make the dough and divide it into 4 balls. Dust with flour, cover and leave to rise. Knock down and roll out 2 pieces (the other 2 pieces will keep in the refrigerator for 3 or 4 days in a zip-lock bag, or may be frozen) very thinly. Alternatively you can also roll the dough through a pasta machine. Cut each into a 18 cm/7 in round. Put to rest on a floured surface, covered with a cloth, at room temperature for 1 hour.
Remove the steaks from the refrigerator, take them out of the bag and put them on a tray to allow to come back to room temperature.
About 30 minutes before serving: dice the cucumber and tomatoes, peel and chop the onion, and chop the coriander leaves. Make a salad with the diced cucumber, tomatoes, onion and coriander leaves. Season lightly with salt and pepper and dress with a little olive oil and the juice of half the remaining lemon.
Make the yogurt relish: finely chop the chives and garlic. Fold these in to the yogurt with the salt and pepper. Dust the top with a little cayenne pepper.
Heavily pepper the steaks with mignonette (coarse) pepper and sprinkle with salt.
Preheat a heavy frying pan and a ridged grill pan (or use a barbecue).
Cook the breads by laying them in the hot dry pan and pressing them down with a spatula to encourage them to balloon. Cook for about 1 minute on each side. Wrap in a cloth and keep warm.
Grill the steaks on the ridged grilling pan for 3—4 minutes on each side. Cut into strips.
Cut the breads in half, open out the pockets and fill them with meat and salad. Offer the chive yogurt at the table for people to spoon into the sandwiches if desired.
© 1995 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.