Fried Wontons with Sweet-and-Sour Sauce

Fried wontons with sweet-and-sour sauce are almost a cliché in the West. Often associated with Westernized Chinese food, the dish has been vulgarized. So I was surprised and delighted when I sampled the dish in Hong Kong. As prepared at the Yung Kee restaurant, the wontons and sauce revealed virtues I had not experienced before. My host and guide, , Hong Kong’s leading food critic, explained that the wontons were double-fried, the second time just before serving. This assures that they will