Squab is difficult to cook in that you have to hit the temperature exactly right. It should be served medium-rare. When it’s rare, it’s tough and difficult to eat. When it starts to get over medium-rare, the meat begins to take on a livery flavor.
We oven-dry the figs left over from summer’s bounty—they’ll keep for a week—and serve them in this fall dish. We use a beautiful yellow Swiss chard, a variety you may be able to find at farmers’ markets.