“Coffee and Doughnuts”

This may be another of those “had-to-be-sad-to-see-it” creations, like the salmon cornet. I was working in L.A., miserable and poor. I had a James Beard Foundation dinner coming up and had no idea what I was going to serve. Across from my apartment was an S and K doughnut shop. I’d go there once a week for a glazed old-fashioned doughnut and a cup of coffee. I liked the glazed old-fashioned because it was so heavy—it felt like you were getting a lot for your money. And there it was: Coffee