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4
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By Anne Willan
Published 1981
In the centuries preceding the railway, barges were pulled by draught-horses up the Rhône to Valence. Superfluous for the journey downstream, these horses were often killed by the sailors (‘marins’), who made them into a good steak dish flavoured with Provençal anchovies, onions and white wine. Nowadays a beef cut such as round or rump steak in Britain, and chuck or round in the USA, would be more fashionable.