Preserved Artichokes

Artichoke season usually hits Burgundy hard in May and June. At the markets, local young artichokes burst from their bins in shades of green and violet. We purchase literal basketfuls each week from Laëtitia Colas, a woman whose farm in Ruffey-lès-Beaune, Le Jardin de la Pomme, produces the most gorgeous specimens. While their thorny leaves, called “bracts,” may seem intimidating, preparing them for preservation—which results in tender hearts much more flavorful than the canned variety—is a