Beef and Pork Raised Pie

Or, without the Crust, Meat Loaf

I’ve published my third book with my friend and colleague, Brian Polcyn, exploring pâté, typically ground and seasoned meat baked and served cold. In the book, Brian wanted to include something he referred to as a raised pie, common in British cookery. I’ve long made my Uncle Bill’s pork pie, ground pork around which dough is formed free-style, which is a version of raised pie, a recipe that hails from Shropshire. But Brian created a similar effect that’s much easier to shape and cook and serve: rolling dough around the meat rather than creating a traditional pie shape.

Here is a deep, rich meat loaf, with beef and pork and an egg panade (plus egg wash for the dough, if you’re using it). The 3-2-1 dough will work for this preparation, but I prefer a hot-water dough; cooked this way, it’s especially crisp and flaky, plus it’s a snap to make. It should rest for 20 to 40 minutes, so consider making the dough after you get the vegetables sautéing and before you begin the meat loaf.

Of course, you can shape this into a loaf and bake it as a traditional meat loaf (see the instructions for this in the Note). Either way, make a beef gravy and serve with peas and mashed potatoes for a classic Americana dinner. This is one of those preparations that’s even better the following day, either cold (Bánh Mì version of the classic meat loaf sandwich) or reheated in the microwave or oven.

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Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 medium onion, cut into medium dice
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 carrot, coarsely grated
  • 5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
  • 1 cup/240 milliliters dry white wine
  • 1 tablespoon powdered gelatin
  • 2 large eggs
  • ½ cup/120 milliliters heavy cream
  • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce
  • ½ cup/35 grams panko bread crumbs
  • 8 ounces/225 grams ground beef (70 to 80 percent lean)
  • 8 ounces/225 grams fatty ground pork
  • ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 2 teaspoons dried thyme
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 recipe Hot-Water Dough
  • 10 to 12 thin slices bacon

Egg wash

  • 1 large egg mixed with 1 tablespoon milk

Method

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onion and stir. Add ½ teaspoon of the salt and the pepper. Stir to cook for a minute or two, then add the carrot and garlic, reduce the heat to medium, and sauté until the vegetables have cooked down and browned slightly, about 10 minutes. Add ½ cup/120 milliliters of the wine to deglaze the pan. When the wine has cooked off, transfer the vegetables to a plate and refrigerate, uncovered, until you’re ready to mix them with the meat. It’s best if they are thoroughly chilled before mixing.

Preheat your oven to 425°F/218°C. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Pour the remaining ½ cup/120 milliliters wine into a wide, shallow bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it so the gelatin can bloom (absorb the liquid). When it has bloomed and no white or dry particles remain, microwave the gelatin mixture for 20 to 30 seconds, just until the gelatin has dissolved. If you don’t have a microwave, put the gelatin in the oven until it has melted, 5 minutes or so, depending on how fast it heats up. When the gelatin has melted, transfer it to a clean bowl so that it’s not too hot when added to the meat.

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, cream, Worcestershire sauce, fish sauce, bread crumbs, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt in a bowl and whip with a fork till the ingredients are uniformly combined into a panade.

Put the beef and pork in a large bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (this can be mixed using a sturdy wood spoon or spatula if you don’t have a mixer). Add the parsley, thyme, and tomato paste. Add the panade and the chilled vegetable mixture and paddle for 1 minute, adding the wine-gelatin mixture as you do, until all the ingredients are combined and the meat has taken on a furry or tacky appearance.

Roll out the dough into a rectangle ¼ inch/6 millimeters thick; it should be about 14 inches/35 centimeters by 12 inches/30 centimeters. Lay the bacon across the center of the dough, up and down rather than side to side—slightly overlapping. The idea is to wrap the meat loaf in the bacon completely so that the bacon creates a barrier between the meat’s moisture and the surrounding dough.

Shape the meat mixture into a log along the length of the bacon strips—it should be about 10 inches/25 centimeters long and the diameter of a soup can. Fold the bacon over it to encase the meat. Fold the top of the dough up and over the meat, then fold the bottom up, trimming as necessary so that you can then pinch the edges together to seal the dough. Roll the meat pie onto the prepared baking sheet, seam side down. Use scissors or a paring knife to cut steam holes across the top, brush it with the egg wash, and bake to an internal temperature of 150°F/65°C, about 45 minutes. Allow it to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting into 1½-inch/4-centimeter slices.